Domaine Dugat-Py
2017 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles VignesGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 93
Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
Drink: 2034+
Issue: 77
Note: a blend of one-third Mazoyères and two-thirds Charmes proper – the fruit comes from a mix of mostly 20+ year-old vines and a small percentage of extremely old vines; 50% stems
Producer note: Bernard Dugat’s son Loïc has now completely taken over the domaine though Bernard continues to help out. The younger Dugat noted that the domaine is now certified as organic though it doesn’t represent any change in viticultural philosophy as the domaine has been farmed this way for years. As I noted last year, what does represent a change in viticultural philosophy though is that the domaine has chosen to no longer trim vine shoots and train as low as before and will now have trellising of roughly 2 meters for the 1ers and grands crus for now, which is very high in the context of what is typical for Burgundy. Dugat’s thinking is consistent with several other domaines in Burgundy, Leroy among them, that the energy required for the vine to heal the wounds could better be channeled to ripen the fruit. This idea isn’t new and it is controversial as some believe that the vine can waste energy by channeling it into shoot development. As the climate changes and warms, it’s going to be fascinating to see how the viticultural strategies change. As to the 2018 growing season, the younger Dugat noted that “winter was cold and humid though this abruptly changed in April as temperatures were already around 20° C which is highly unusual. We had an early start to the flowering which was underway by the 23rd of May. Temperatures continued to climb as they hit 34° C in June and 37° C in July. I chose to attack the harvest on the 29th of August in our parcel in Pommard and then picked the rest over the next 7 days. Yields were variable at between 20 and 30 hl/ha with potential alcohols that ranged from 12.8 to 13.5%. As usual we utilized a very high proportion of whole clusters that, with one exception, ranged from 50 to basically 100%. The malos once again took a very long time to finish and several of them, namely La Perrière and Petite Chapelle, still haven’t. I again chose to reduce the percentage of new wood as ripe vintages tend to absorb it rapidly. Overall, I like the 2018s a lot because even though they’re riper than normal, they don’t have the roasted character of say some 2003s.” As I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. In fact, they are so structured that I underscore what I have said in the past: the Dugat-Py wines are constructed for the very long haul. As such, in my view, it is largely pointless to open them young but if you can’t resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat also said that his 2017s, nine of which are revisited below, were bottled in February and March 2019 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: This is quite ripe with its notes of poached plum, red and dark cherry and a hint of newly turned earth. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is velvety and seductive yet with fine size, weight and volume with excellent power on the dusty, intense and impressively persistent finish. Patience strongly suggested.
Dugat-Py, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes
US$1,500 / 每箱價格
Domaine Dugat-Py
2017 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles VignesGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 93
Tasted: Jan 10, 2020
Drink: 2034+
Issue: 77
Note: a blend of one-third Mazoyères and two-thirds Charmes proper – the fruit comes from a mix of mostly 20+ year-old vines and a small percentage of extremely old vines; 50% stems
Producer note: Bernard Dugat’s son Loïc has now completely taken over the domaine though Bernard continues to help out. The younger Dugat noted that the domaine is now certified as organic though it doesn’t represent any change in viticultural philosophy as the domaine has been farmed this way for years. As I noted last year, what does represent a change in viticultural philosophy though is that the domaine has chosen to no longer trim vine shoots and train as low as before and will now have trellising of roughly 2 meters for the 1ers and grands crus for now, which is very high in the context of what is typical for Burgundy. Dugat’s thinking is consistent with several other domaines in Burgundy, Leroy among them, that the energy required for the vine to heal the wounds could better be channeled to ripen the fruit. This idea isn’t new and it is controversial as some believe that the vine can waste energy by channeling it into shoot development. As the climate changes and warms, it’s going to be fascinating to see how the viticultural strategies change. As to the 2018 growing season, the younger Dugat noted that “winter was cold and humid though this abruptly changed in April as temperatures were already around 20° C which is highly unusual. We had an early start to the flowering which was underway by the 23rd of May. Temperatures continued to climb as they hit 34° C in June and 37° C in July. I chose to attack the harvest on the 29th of August in our parcel in Pommard and then picked the rest over the next 7 days. Yields were variable at between 20 and 30 hl/ha with potential alcohols that ranged from 12.8 to 13.5%. As usual we utilized a very high proportion of whole clusters that, with one exception, ranged from 50 to basically 100%. The malos once again took a very long time to finish and several of them, namely La Perrière and Petite Chapelle, still haven’t. I again chose to reduce the percentage of new wood as ripe vintages tend to absorb it rapidly. Overall, I like the 2018s a lot because even though they’re riper than normal, they don’t have the roasted character of say some 2003s.” As I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. In fact, they are so structured that I underscore what I have said in the past: the Dugat-Py wines are constructed for the very long haul. As such, in my view, it is largely pointless to open them young but if you can’t resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat also said that his 2017s, nine of which are revisited below, were bottled in February and March 2019 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: This is quite ripe with its notes of poached plum, red and dark cherry and a hint of newly turned earth. The mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is velvety and seductive yet with fine size, weight and volume with excellent power on the dusty, intense and impressively persistent finish. Patience strongly suggested.
