Domaine Faiveley
2017Charmes-ChambertinGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: NR
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Drink:
Issue: 73
Note: from Charmes proper
Producer note: Though I reported this last year, it’s sufficiently important to bear repeating one more time. Long-time readers may remember that in 2007 the domaine made the dramatic decision to change the style of its reds, which up to that point could be fairly described as unapologetically old school. In other words, reds that were firmly structured, sturdy and built-to-age for the long-term. In 2007 this more rustic style was discarded in favor of wines that possessed more elegance and finesse in the hopes of creating more supple burgundies that required less long-term cellaring. Erwan Faiveley explained that “while we like the current style and what it offers, for several years we were feeling that perhaps we had strayed too far from our roots. To this end, we finally asked if there might not be a way to combine the two in a way that remained true to our history but didn’t require 20 years before the wines were completely ready to drink. So now we’re looking for more density and riper tannins while doing our best to retain a more refined mouthfeel. To achieve this we’re harvesting a few days later in the search for a higher level of phenolic maturity and then vinifying the fruit in a fashion that reduces forced extraction and emphasizes natural extraction. In other words, we will take what the fruit has to give in any given vintage without forcing more out of it that often results in overtly extracted wines.” As an aside, congratulations are in order for Erwan Faiveley and his wife as they were blessed with a baby boy on December 18th. Named Auguste Faiveley, he will represent the 8th generation of the Faiveley family though it may be a little early to predict that he will one day replace his father as the head of Domaine Faiveley!
Tasting note: A pungent nose offers up little more than strong reduction and wood notes today. Otherwise there is reasonably good volume and punch to the middle weight flavors though the reduction shows up again on the austere and gas-suffused finish. This is tough to read and while it may come together, I would prefer not to guess. Not Rated.
