Maison Joseph Drouhin
2016 Clos de VougeotGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Apr 15, 2018
Drink: 2036+
Issue: 70
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Note: Drouhin owns .91 ha in two parcels that are rarely blended as the lower portion is typically sold
Producer note: I met with Véronique Drouhin who noted that the 2016 growing season “was a major challenge as the constantly wet conditions combined with frost, oidium and mildew took more than their fair share of potential yield. Happily, conditions improved in mid-July, indeed to the point that our concerns shifted from dealing with the persistent rain to dealing with the lack of it as some vines began to evidence signs of hydric stress and bloquage. [Bloquage is what the Burgundians call a condition where the vines shut down and stop with the process of photosynthesis.] Serendipitously there was a moderate storm on the 15th of September that reignited the ripening process and even added a bit of much needed volume to the fruit that was becoming dehydrated. The fruit was impeccably clean though there was for the most part very little of it in many of our appellations though a few, like those in Vosne for example, were almost normal. If there is any benefit to the mostly tiny quantities that we have realized since 2010, it’s that we’re now much better equipped to deal with them. This is to say that we have a variety of small fermenters, pumps and hoses that are specifically designed to handle small volumes. We used more whole clusters in the vinifications than we usually do, which is simply the result of the tiny quantities where you need a certain volume to manage the heat during the fermentations. As to the wines, I love the 2016s. The 2015s are impressively ripe, rich and powerful wines but the 2016s come from the other side of the stylistic spectrum in that they’re elegant, fresh, energetic and super-transparent to the underlying terroir.” I very much agree with Drouhin in terms of her description of her 2016s and overall I found the quality here to be outstanding. See also the associated Domaine Hospices de Belleville in the En Plus section for the Fleurie review.
Tasting note: A somber and highly reserved nose only reluctantly offers up notes of plum, violet and freshly turned earth. There is exceptionally good richness to the big-bodied and muscular flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract that serves to buffer the markedly firm tannins on the powerful, youthfully austere and hugely long finish. This is quite simply terrific but note well that it would be pointless to buy this without the intention to allow it at least 10 years of cellar time.
