Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
2009Vosne-Romanée “Reignots” ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 92-94
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
Drink: 2021+
Issue: 41
Don’t miss! Outstanding
Note: the Liger-Belair vines in this small vineyard run from top to bottom whereas the others are situated in segments; Cathiard is on top, Grivot in the middle and Arnoux at the bottom
Producer note: Louis-Michel Liger-Belair told me that 2009 is a “great vintage. I prefer my ’09s to my ’05s though I’m sure that this isn’t the case everywhere. I picked between the 12th and the 27th of September and there was very little sorting work required. Yields were comfortable but correct with better than good sugars, which ranged from 12.5 to 14% and thus I chaptalized nothing. There were several changes that occurred in 2009, one of which was having converted my viticulture to 100% biodynamic farming. While I’d like to think that doing so made a difference, it’s honestly too soon to tell. By contrast, one thing that I know made a big difference was the change of presses. I say this because it was immediately clear when the quality of the tannins began to change and thus I had far less juice with bitter tannins. Moreover, it helped with the quality of the lees as they were much finer than with my old press. Overall, I am really excited by the quality of the ’09s and I can’t wait to see them in a decade’s time.” As the scores and comments suggest, the now in-bottle ’08s have also turned out very well, which is to say that they are largely consistent with my original predicted ranges. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; additional distributors include Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA & TX, and USA Wine Imports, www.usawineimports.com, NY, NY for “Selection Pas Mal”, New York, NY; Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, UK and Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: Relatively heavy reduction makes the nose impossible to evaluate but the supple, round and beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors seem to exude both a liquid minerality and plenty of dry extract that buffers the firm but sophisticated tannins on the tension-infused, focused and highly complex finish. This should be terrific and I really like the impeccable balance.
