Domaine Denis Mortet
2011Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 90-92
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2021+
Issue: 49
Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that the 2011 vintage had us “sweating because if it hadn’t been for the pretty much ideal weather the last two weeks of August, I really don’t know what we would have made for wine but it’s doubtful that it would have been much good. While we had a very good and positive start to the growing season, the flowering was difficult with a high incidence of shot berries. Because the harvest weather was just about perfect, I picked slowly using a very small team of harvesters from the 1st to the 13th of September. Sorting was quite varied with some parcels needing plenty and others were almost completely clean. We did the sorting directly in the vineyards, which is of course optimal as you don’t bring rot-afflicted fruit back to the cuverie where it rubs against the clean fruit during the transportation. I did a slightly softer vinification and once again cut down on the amount of new wood and I will probably cut it down again in 2012. I also used a bit of whole cluster ferments for a few wines just to see how I like it. One interesting aspect of the wines is just how much they improved during the élevage as they really fleshed out. As to the wines themselves, they are not quite as good as the 2010s but they are almost as good and I think that they’re going to really surprise some people with their quality.” While I would agree with Mortet that 2011 is certainly a very fine vintage, I don’t believe that his ’11s, good as they are, will give his terrific ’10s much of a run for their money though perhaps time will prove otherwise. (Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, H & H Bancroft Wines, www.bancroftwines.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, all UK).
Tasting note: An ultra-pure and very cool nose that is quite floral in basic character complements the wet stone and dark berry fruit aromas that slide seamlessly into the rich, intense and suave middle weight flavors that exude a finer minerality on the mildly austere, precise, balanced and mildly austere finish. I like the sense of harmony and energy here.
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux
US$3,400 / 每箱價格
Domaine Denis Mortet
2011Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 90-92
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2021+
Issue: 49
Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that the 2011 vintage had us “sweating because if it hadn’t been for the pretty much ideal weather the last two weeks of August, I really don’t know what we would have made for wine but it’s doubtful that it would have been much good. While we had a very good and positive start to the growing season, the flowering was difficult with a high incidence of shot berries. Because the harvest weather was just about perfect, I picked slowly using a very small team of harvesters from the 1st to the 13th of September. Sorting was quite varied with some parcels needing plenty and others were almost completely clean. We did the sorting directly in the vineyards, which is of course optimal as you don’t bring rot-afflicted fruit back to the cuverie where it rubs against the clean fruit during the transportation. I did a slightly softer vinification and once again cut down on the amount of new wood and I will probably cut it down again in 2012. I also used a bit of whole cluster ferments for a few wines just to see how I like it. One interesting aspect of the wines is just how much they improved during the élevage as they really fleshed out. As to the wines themselves, they are not quite as good as the 2010s but they are almost as good and I think that they’re going to really surprise some people with their quality.” While I would agree with Mortet that 2011 is certainly a very fine vintage, I don’t believe that his ’11s, good as they are, will give his terrific ’10s much of a run for their money though perhaps time will prove otherwise. (Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, H & H Bancroft Wines, www.bancroftwines.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, all UK).
Tasting note: An ultra-pure and very cool nose that is quite floral in basic character complements the wet stone and dark berry fruit aromas that slide seamlessly into the rich, intense and suave middle weight flavors that exude a finer minerality on the mildly austere, precise, balanced and mildly austere finish. I like the sense of harmony and energy here.
