Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
2011Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots” 1er ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 90-93
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2018+
Issue: 49
Outstanding
Note: 30+ year old vines
Producer note: As I reported in Issue 45, a change of the generational guard has occurred at this domaine as 2010 was the last vintage for Sylvain Cathiard. Cathiard explained that he has been slowly turning over the reins to his son Sébastian and while the elder Cathiard will continue to be a “presence”, the main decisions and day-to-day operational choices will now be assumed by the junior Cathiard. As to the 2011 vintage, the younger Cathiard observed that “despite the up and down growing season, we managed to wind up with both largely clean and definitely ripe fruit. We began picking on the 4th of September and while there was some sorting required, it varied quite a bit by sector. Overall I would put the sorting losses at no more than 5%. Potential alcohols were correct if not high at between 11.5 and 12.5%, which is just fine as long as you have the phenolic maturity necessary, which we definitely did. And because we had the necessary maturity I saw no reason to modify the vinification approach either. In terms of quantity we actually had a bit less than we did in 2010 though exactly why I am not sure because most of my neighbors tell me that it was the reverse for them. As to the wines, the 2011s are clearly not as structured as the 2010s but they should drink well earlier as they are very round, rich and already delicious. They remind me of fleshier and more concentrated 2007s.” I agree with Cathiard’s comments regarding his general take the domaine’s 2011s and 2010s, which is to say that the 2011s are lovely but the 2010s are flat out great. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Robert Rolls & Co., www.robertrolls.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, La Réserve, and O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, all UK; Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/CO/AZ/NM, Fine Vines, www.finevines.com, Chicago, IL, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY/NJ/CT, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, Small Potatoes Wine, www.smallpotatoeswine.com, Boise ID, C’est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA).
Tasting note: Reduction dominates the nose at present. There is more size and weight to the fleshier if not finer medium-bodied flavors that exude an abundance of dry extract that imparts a velvety and seductive mouth feel to the palate soaking, punchy and impressively long finish. This is quite different from the En Orveaux because while there is more volume here, there is also less refinement. A qualitative choice.
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots
US$8,500 / 每箱價格
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
2011Vosne-Romanée “Les Suchots” 1er ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 90-93
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2018+
Issue: 49
Outstanding
Note: 30+ year old vines
Producer note: As I reported in Issue 45, a change of the generational guard has occurred at this domaine as 2010 was the last vintage for Sylvain Cathiard. Cathiard explained that he has been slowly turning over the reins to his son Sébastian and while the elder Cathiard will continue to be a “presence”, the main decisions and day-to-day operational choices will now be assumed by the junior Cathiard. As to the 2011 vintage, the younger Cathiard observed that “despite the up and down growing season, we managed to wind up with both largely clean and definitely ripe fruit. We began picking on the 4th of September and while there was some sorting required, it varied quite a bit by sector. Overall I would put the sorting losses at no more than 5%. Potential alcohols were correct if not high at between 11.5 and 12.5%, which is just fine as long as you have the phenolic maturity necessary, which we definitely did. And because we had the necessary maturity I saw no reason to modify the vinification approach either. In terms of quantity we actually had a bit less than we did in 2010 though exactly why I am not sure because most of my neighbors tell me that it was the reverse for them. As to the wines, the 2011s are clearly not as structured as the 2010s but they should drink well earlier as they are very round, rich and already delicious. They remind me of fleshier and more concentrated 2007s.” I agree with Cathiard’s comments regarding his general take the domaine’s 2011s and 2010s, which is to say that the 2011s are lovely but the 2010s are flat out great. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Le Serbet, www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Robert Rolls & Co., www.robertrolls.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, La Réserve, and O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, all UK; Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/CO/AZ/NM, Fine Vines, www.finevines.com, Chicago, IL, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY/NJ/CT, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, Small Potatoes Wine, www.smallpotatoeswine.com, Boise ID, C’est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA).
Tasting note: Reduction dominates the nose at present. There is more size and weight to the fleshier if not finer medium-bodied flavors that exude an abundance of dry extract that imparts a velvety and seductive mouth feel to the palate soaking, punchy and impressively long finish. This is quite different from the En Orveaux because while there is more volume here, there is also less refinement. A qualitative choice.
