Domaine François Lamarche
2011Vosne-Romanée “La Croix Rameau” 1er1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 88-91
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2017+
Issue: 49
Producer note: Nicole Lamarche told me that 2011 “was hard to vinify as the bunches did not give up their colors or dry extract right away. The reason I think is that when we began picking on the 3rd of September it was quite warm and thus the fruit was warm. As a consequence the fermentations started almost immediately and thus there was less cool maceration than is typical. Normally I would just cool the musts down but my refrigeration system broke just when we began picking, which wasn’t exactly opportune! As to the vinification, I didn’t use a softer approach but I did allow the ferments to continue for a longer period than I typically do. I also decided to destem 100% this year just to be sure that there weren’t any off odors or aromas as there was some botrytis and it loves stems and even with a thorough sorting you can never be completely certain that you got everything. As to the wines, the 2011s are wines of finesse but with excellent structural ripeness levels and thus they should age well.” As was the case with her 2010s, I have to agree with Lamarche that she did indeed produce wines of finesse and balance across their various terroirs. The tannins are extremely sophisticated and many wines have a seductively silky mouth feel. I should note that Lamarche had racked the wines only one week before my visit and she felt as though they weren’t showing as well as they had been as a result. (Jeanne-Marie de Champs, e-mail: jeanne-marie@jmdechamps.com, NY is the agent with many regional importers, including Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR, Burgundy Wine Company, www.burgundywinecompany.com, NY, NY, and Glazer’s, www.glazers.com, Dallas, TX, PA; Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, UK, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, UK, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, UK, Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, UK, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, UK and Raeburn Fine Wines, www.raeburnfinewines.com, Edinburgh, UK; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Asia).
Tasting note: Relatively strong reduction renders the nose difficult to assess. The racy, intense and well-defined flavors possess a supple and round mid-palate though the finish is somewhat clipped and difficult at present. I suspect that it will round out once it is bottled and my range offers the benefit of the doubt.
Domaine Francois Lamarche, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots
US$2,400 / 每箱價格
Domaine François Lamarche
2011Vosne-Romanée “La Croix Rameau” 1er1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 88-91
Tasted: Jan 14, 2013
Drink: 2017+
Issue: 49
Producer note: Nicole Lamarche told me that 2011 “was hard to vinify as the bunches did not give up their colors or dry extract right away. The reason I think is that when we began picking on the 3rd of September it was quite warm and thus the fruit was warm. As a consequence the fermentations started almost immediately and thus there was less cool maceration than is typical. Normally I would just cool the musts down but my refrigeration system broke just when we began picking, which wasn’t exactly opportune! As to the vinification, I didn’t use a softer approach but I did allow the ferments to continue for a longer period than I typically do. I also decided to destem 100% this year just to be sure that there weren’t any off odors or aromas as there was some botrytis and it loves stems and even with a thorough sorting you can never be completely certain that you got everything. As to the wines, the 2011s are wines of finesse but with excellent structural ripeness levels and thus they should age well.” As was the case with her 2010s, I have to agree with Lamarche that she did indeed produce wines of finesse and balance across their various terroirs. The tannins are extremely sophisticated and many wines have a seductively silky mouth feel. I should note that Lamarche had racked the wines only one week before my visit and she felt as though they weren’t showing as well as they had been as a result. (Jeanne-Marie de Champs, e-mail: jeanne-marie@jmdechamps.com, NY is the agent with many regional importers, including Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR, Burgundy Wine Company, www.burgundywinecompany.com, NY, NY, and Glazer’s, www.glazers.com, Dallas, TX, PA; Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, UK, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, UK, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, UK, Richards Walford & Co., Ltd., www.r-w.co.uk, UK, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, UK, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, UK and Raeburn Fine Wines, www.raeburnfinewines.com, Edinburgh, UK; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Asia).
Tasting note: Relatively strong reduction renders the nose difficult to assess. The racy, intense and well-defined flavors possess a supple and round mid-palate though the finish is somewhat clipped and difficult at present. I suspect that it will round out once it is bottled and my range offers the benefit of the doubt.
