Domaine Pierre Girardin
2018 Bâtard-MontrachetGrand Cru White barrel
Score: 93-95
Tasted: Jun 10, 2021
Drink: 2034+
Issue: 83
Note: from 85-year-old vines in Chassagne
Producer note: Pierre Girardin, age 21 and whose first vintage was 2017, is the son of the well-known producer Vincent Girardin who sold his operation in 2011 (see immediately below). However, he kept certain vineyards and has now bequeathed them to Pierre to farm. Thanks to his father’s extensive contacts, Pierre has been able to supplement his production in both red and white through fruit contracts. The wines are made in a brand new and dramatically impressive building situated on the main route (D974) on the southern end of Meursault, about two miles from where I live when I’m in Burgundy. Girardin explained that he farms 7.3 ha directly and buys in the form of fruit the equivalent of another 7 ha. The viticultural approach is completely organic and Girardin says that he will apply for certification. The harvest is done manually with sorting at the cuverie. For the reds, whole clusters are used in varying proportions during a 14 to 18-day cuvaison with no punch downs. After a short lees settling, the wines are barreled down for 12 months in oak where the maximum percentage of new wood is 50% and some wines see none at all. The wines are then racked into stainless for 2 to 3 months where they are then bottled directly without fining or filtration. The whites see a similar élevage period where there is never any lees stirring in mostly 450-liter barrels. I have to say that I was impressed with the quality I found here and in both colors. The vinifications are deft with just the right amount of extraction and the style is understated and pure. It is of course helpful to be working with some of the greatest terroirs in Burgundy, but the quality still has to be there. We will of course see how things progress over the next few vintages, but suffice it to say that this young man is a clear talent who bears watching carefully.
Tasting note: Ripe white and yellow fleshed fruit aromas are laced with hints of spice and floral elements along with discreet but perceptible wood. Like the Corton-Charlemagne, the tightly wound medium weight flavors are not super-dense but they do display focused power on the lemony and hugely long finale. This isn’t a big and imposing Bâtard so much as it is one of refinement and serious intensity. Patience recommended.
