Domaine Gabriel Tortochot
2018 Charmes-ChambertinGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 93
Tasted: Jan 10, 2021
Drink: 2033+
Issue: 81
Note: from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper
Producer note: Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, and who has done so since 1997, briefly described the 2018 growing season as one that “had certain similarities with the 2019 season but with one major difference, which is to say that the spring was extremely wet, in fact 2.5 times greater than normal. While a problem at the time, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because without that extra water, it’s not entirely certain that we wouldn’t have had another 2003 on our hands in terms of sunburned and baked fruit. Not completely surprisingly given the subsequent warm weather, we did have to fight off a serious attack of mildew but when the summer arrived with its very dry and hot conditions, the mildew dried up. There was a generous fruit set and the warm conditions allowed a large crop to properly mature. We picked from the 3rd of September and brought in relatively high yields, at least for us as they were in the 45 to 50 hl/ha range. I chose to use around 25% whole clusters for all the wines and thankfully I had no particular issues with the vinifications. During the élevage the wines saw varied percentages of new wood which is to say 10 to 15% for the villages, 25 to 30% for the 1ers and 60 to 100% for the grands crus. Stylistically, the wines are definitely ripe and marked by the warmth of the growing season yet they manage to stay fresh and balanced plus they should age for a very long time for those who have the patience as there is plenty of structure to do so.” The Tortochot 2018s were bottled between November 2019 and March 2020. Note that the Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young
Tasting note: A cool, pure and equally fresh nose isn’t quite so deeply pitched with plenty of earth and humus characters on the red currant, cassis and lavender-scented aromas that are also trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The mouthfeel is relatively refined thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the dense, vibrant and bigger-bodied flavors that conclude in a lingering and ever-so-mildly austere finale. This is lovely and very well-balanced plus it should also age extremely well.
