Domaine Denis Mortet
2015Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 91-94
Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
Drink: 2030+
Issue: 65
Sweet spot Outstanding
Note: from 5 different parcels situated all over the appellation that total 1.17 ha; 35% whole clusters
Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that 2015 “was an easy and straightforward vintage compared to 2012, 2013 and 2014 as there was no serious disease pressure apart from some early season oidium thanks to the hot and dry conditions. For example, we made a total of 6 treatments for the entire season as opposed to 8 or 9 in a good vintage. We picked from the 3rd to the 11th of September and the fruit was clean and ripe; in fact I have never seen such good maturities. Even my 84 year old grandfather was impressed as he told me to enjoy my good fortune because in his opinion we’ll never see such perfectly ripe fruit again. Potential alcohols were good but not really high as they came in between 12.7 to a little over 13% and I would estimate that the average wine was right at 13%. Yields were also excellent at between 38 and 42 hl/ha so there is nothing to complain about there either. I used varying percentages of whole clusters and given that the skins were thick the extractions came easily so the vinifications were straightforward. As to the wines they’re certainly excellent and perhaps even great but the aspect that impresses me the most is how good the balance is between the fruit, concentration and structural elements. I believe that people are going to love the 2015s.” I agree with Mortet that his 2015s are indeed excellent but don’t ignore the 2014s, revisited below, as they too are exceptionally good across the board. He noted that he bottled the 2014s in March and April 2016. (Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/Macau).
Tasting note: Here the wood treatment is more pronounced though not so much as to stifle the markedly earthy and again notably floral-scented nose of black raspberry liqueur and plum aromas. There is excellent size, weight and richness to the big-bodied and intensely mineral-driven flavors that brim with dry extract before exploding on the wonderfully persistent finish where the wood resurfaces. Like the Champeaux this should be approachable after 7 to 8 years yet if you want to see it at its peak, it will need at least 15 years.
Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaut Saint-Jacques
US$2,100 / 每箱價格
Domaine Denis Mortet
2015Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 91-94
Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
Drink: 2030+
Issue: 65
Sweet spot Outstanding
Note: from 5 different parcels situated all over the appellation that total 1.17 ha; 35% whole clusters
Producer note: Arnaud Mortet observed that 2015 “was an easy and straightforward vintage compared to 2012, 2013 and 2014 as there was no serious disease pressure apart from some early season oidium thanks to the hot and dry conditions. For example, we made a total of 6 treatments for the entire season as opposed to 8 or 9 in a good vintage. We picked from the 3rd to the 11th of September and the fruit was clean and ripe; in fact I have never seen such good maturities. Even my 84 year old grandfather was impressed as he told me to enjoy my good fortune because in his opinion we’ll never see such perfectly ripe fruit again. Potential alcohols were good but not really high as they came in between 12.7 to a little over 13% and I would estimate that the average wine was right at 13%. Yields were also excellent at between 38 and 42 hl/ha so there is nothing to complain about there either. I used varying percentages of whole clusters and given that the skins were thick the extractions came easily so the vinifications were straightforward. As to the wines they’re certainly excellent and perhaps even great but the aspect that impresses me the most is how good the balance is between the fruit, concentration and structural elements. I believe that people are going to love the 2015s.” I agree with Mortet that his 2015s are indeed excellent but don’t ignore the 2014s, revisited below, as they too are exceptionally good across the board. He noted that he bottled the 2014s in March and April 2016. (Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/Macau).
Tasting note: Here the wood treatment is more pronounced though not so much as to stifle the markedly earthy and again notably floral-scented nose of black raspberry liqueur and plum aromas. There is excellent size, weight and richness to the big-bodied and intensely mineral-driven flavors that brim with dry extract before exploding on the wonderfully persistent finish where the wood resurfaces. Like the Champeaux this should be approachable after 7 to 8 years yet if you want to see it at its peak, it will need at least 15 years.
