Domaine Jean Grivot
2017 RichebourgGrand Cru Red barrel
Score: 93-96
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Drink: 2037+
Issue: 73
Don’t miss!
Note: from Richebourg proper
Producer note: Etienne Grivot describes the 2017 growing season as one where “we finally had a real winter as there were numerous frosts though March was relatively warm, in fact the warmest since 1957. Bud break was early and closely resembles 2011 in that respect. The second half of April was cold and again and we narrowly avoided frost damage for the second year in a row. May began with dry but cool temperatures that helped to slow down the vegetation. The second half of the month though was again temperate and dry and thankfully the spring had been sufficiently wet to allow the vines to draw on those water reserves. Disease pressure continued to be light so there were no worries there either. By the 7th of June we were already in the middle of the flowering, which again underscored how far in advance the vines were. On the 9th and 10th of July we had heavy storms but thankfully there was no damage of consequence and the water again allowed the vines to continue to ripen the fruit quickly. We began picking on the 12th of September and brought in clean and ripe fruit that required very little sorting. The vinifications were easy and there is really little out of the ordinary to report. One of the best aspects of the wines is how transparent they are and another is their freshness and vivacity. I would describe them as serious but supple wines that should be multipurpose in that they should provide for pleasurable early drinking but have no difficulties aging well too.” Grivot noted that the domaine is now using corks that have been individually tested to guarantee against cork taint. Grivot also noted that his superb 2016s, several of which are reviewed below, were bottled in February and March 2018. (Treasury Château & Estates Wines, www.tweglobal.com, CA, USA; Ballantynes of Cowbridge, www.ballantynes.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Seckford Wines, www.seckfordwines.co.uk, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com, Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, all UK; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com/hk, Hong Kong; Pearl of Burgundy, www.pearlofburgundy.com, Hong Kong and Macau).
Tasting note: Here there is no reductive funk as the elegant, airy and beautifully perfumed nose offers up notes of sandalwood, anise, clove, Asian-style tea and plenty of floral influences. There is excellent delineation and minerality to the solidly concentrated, indeed even muscular, large-scaled flavors that culminate in an incredibly long if very, very backward, austere and compact finale. This Zen-like effort is going to require an extended snooze in a cool cellar and as such, it’s a wine to buy and forget that you own it for at least a decade.
