Domaine Leroy
2001 MusignyGrand Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 97
Tasted: Jan 01, 2003
Drink: 2018-30+
Issue: 9
Don’t miss!
Producer note: Mme Bize reports that her yields in 2001 were lower than in 2000, averaging only 17 hl/ha compared to the prior vintage’s yields of between 20 and 22 hl/ha. As was the case for the 2000 vintage, Domaines Leroy and d’Auvenay elected to bottle quite early; just before the harvest for the 2001s and in early November for the 2000s. When I inquired as to why she elected to bottle so early, the response was essentially that it was to “preserve freshness and to use even less SO2”. I tasted the Domaine Leroy wines in late November and I will taste the Domaine d’Auvenay wines in February (a report on which will appear in Issue 10).
The Leroy 2001s are, in a word, incredible and in most cases, clearly better than her very impressive 2000s. Mme Bize summarizes the two vintages by saying “2000 is bigger but 2001 is finer and more precise”. I have commented in the past that the quality of the tannic structure of the Leroy wines seems to become ever finer with each passing vintage and so it is again in 2001. Moreover, there is a purity and remarkable texture to the wines that seems even more pronounced and perhaps because the ripeness was not as high in 2001 that the wines appear to be even more transparent to their respective terroirs than usual. In fact, when taken as a whole from the top to the bottom of the Leroy range, this may rival the 1993 vintage as her finest ever. Such comparisons aside, what is absolutely clear is that this is a knock out set of wines and despite the often painful prices, it is unquestionably a vintage to buy at least a few bottles because the wines are unquestionably sensational. Note: I will review the d’Auvenay reds in the next Issue. (Martine’s Wines, Novato, California)
Tasting note: Not illogically, this wine seems to combine the best attributes of the Clos de Vougeot and the RSV, borrowing the barely contained power of the former with the mind-boggling refinement and sheer class of the latter. Stunningly elegant and pure if completely reserved nose of mocha, black raspberry, spice and smoke introduces massive, powerful, stupendously intense flavors that deliver layer upon layer of richly concentrated earthy essence. This is emotionally thrilling juice and transcendent in every respect and the length is almost not believable. What I find so enthralling though is how so much flavor impact and authority can be so effortlessly delivered and without a trace of heaviness. An absolutely compelling wine and it wouldn’t surprise me a bit if my score were to one day found to be conservative.
