Domaine Dugat-Py
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques Vieilles Vignes” ♥1er Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Jan 10, 2023
Drink: 2035+
Issue: 89
Outstanding
Note: vinified with 70% stems
Producer note: If it looks as though there are several new wines in the Dugat-Py line-up, your eyes are not deceiving you as there are indeed newcomers, which are: the Beaune 1ers of Les Avaux (it was not presented), Les Grèves, Monthélie and the Pommard villages vineyard of Les Vaumuriens-Hauts. With respect to the 2021 growing season, Loïc Dugat noted that the “frost obviously complicated matters from basically the get go and the summer was wet and cool though not so cool that you couldn’t get good ripeness levels if you properly protected the vines. We picked from the 17th of September and there wasn’t really much sorting necessary. Yields weren’t great but it wasn’t a catastrophe either with good potential alcohols. As usual, I used a varying percentage of whole clusters during the vinifications that went smoothly. As to the style of the 2021s, I confess to absolutely adoring it as the wines are so fresh and vibrant that they’re practically irresistible already and they’re not even in bottle yet. Plus, the terroir transparency is as good as any vintage that I have ever made so they should be popular with purists as well as those who just want a satisfying glass of something good.” Dugat noted that a few wines had either not completely finished their malos, or had only just finished, and as such the entire range was not presented. Even so, based on what I did taste, these are some of the best wines of the vintage so if you can find them, don’t hesitate. And as I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. However, I would observe that the Dugat-Py 2021s are definitely more approachable and should be, as he suggests, accessible earlier than is typical for the domaine. Dugat also said that his 2020s, twelve of which are revisited below, were bottled between November 2021 and March 2022 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: A markedly more sauvage-inflected nose speaks mostly of earth and humus on the ripe dark berry fruit aromas. There is superb density to the powerful and palate drenching large-bodied flavors that also exude plenty of minerality on the explosively long, robust and vaguely rustic finish. This exceptionally serious effort could also use better depth but once again, that should be no problem given its considerable potential. A stunner of a LSJ.
Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaut Saint-Jacques Vieilles Vignes
US$1,400 / 每箱價格
Domaine Dugat-Py
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques Vieilles Vignes” ♥1er Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 95
Tasted: Jan 10, 2023
Drink: 2035+
Issue: 89
Outstanding
Note: vinified with 70% stems
Producer note: If it looks as though there are several new wines in the Dugat-Py line-up, your eyes are not deceiving you as there are indeed newcomers, which are: the Beaune 1ers of Les Avaux (it was not presented), Les Grèves, Monthélie and the Pommard villages vineyard of Les Vaumuriens-Hauts. With respect to the 2021 growing season, Loïc Dugat noted that the “frost obviously complicated matters from basically the get go and the summer was wet and cool though not so cool that you couldn’t get good ripeness levels if you properly protected the vines. We picked from the 17th of September and there wasn’t really much sorting necessary. Yields weren’t great but it wasn’t a catastrophe either with good potential alcohols. As usual, I used a varying percentage of whole clusters during the vinifications that went smoothly. As to the style of the 2021s, I confess to absolutely adoring it as the wines are so fresh and vibrant that they’re practically irresistible already and they’re not even in bottle yet. Plus, the terroir transparency is as good as any vintage that I have ever made so they should be popular with purists as well as those who just want a satisfying glass of something good.” Dugat noted that a few wines had either not completely finished their malos, or had only just finished, and as such the entire range was not presented. Even so, based on what I did taste, these are some of the best wines of the vintage so if you can find them, don’t hesitate. And as I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. However, I would observe that the Dugat-Py 2021s are definitely more approachable and should be, as he suggests, accessible earlier than is typical for the domaine. Dugat also said that his 2020s, twelve of which are revisited below, were bottled between November 2021 and March 2022 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: A markedly more sauvage-inflected nose speaks mostly of earth and humus on the ripe dark berry fruit aromas. There is superb density to the powerful and palate drenching large-bodied flavors that also exude plenty of minerality on the explosively long, robust and vaguely rustic finish. This exceptionally serious effort could also use better depth but once again, that should be no problem given its considerable potential. A stunner of a LSJ.
