Domaine Dugat-Py
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Petite Chapelle Vieilles Vignes” ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 93-95
Tasted: Jan 10, 2022
Drink: 2032+
Issue: 85
Sweet spot Outstanding
Note: from a .32 ha parcel; vinified with 60% whole cluster
Producer note: Bernard Dugat’s son Loïc has now completely taken over the domaine though Bernard continues to help out. As to the 2020 growing season, Dugat noted that it “was another in a recent series of hot, dry and early vintages. The drought caused problems for the younger vines, but we have so many older vines with well-developed root systems that there was relatively little blocage. I started the harvest very early, which is to say we picked between the 20th and 24th of August. We were able to pick so fast because I employed a team of fully 60 pickers and because there wasn’t much fruit and even less that required any significant sorting. Yields were not great as they ranged from 16 to 28 hl/ha, which is a bit less than the 20 to 30 hl/ha we realized in 2019. Potential alcohols came in around 13%, which is also a bit lower than the 13.5% we obtained in 2019. As usual, I used quite a bit of whole clusters during the vinifications, none of which had any trouble finishing. As to the wines, I have to say that I really love the style of the 2020s. Perhaps the most positive aspect is their balance followed by their incredible vibrancy. They are also showing well, and we may in fact have a great vintage on our hands.” Dugat noted that a few wines had either not completely finished their malos, or had only just finished, and as such the entire range was not presented. As I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. In fact, they are so structured that I underscore what I have said in the past: the Dugat-Py wines are constructed for the very long haul even though Loïc has definitely lightened up on the extraction. Even so, in my view it is largely pointless to open the upper-level wines young but if you can’t resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat also said that his 2019s, nine of which are revisited below, were bottled between November 2020 and March 2021 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: An overtly floral and expressive nose exhibits notes of wild dark cherry, anise and a hint of wood. The more elegant and refined middle weight flavors aren’t quite as powerful but they are more complex and just as concentrated on the youthfully austere finale. This wonderfully stylish mineral-driven effort isn’t as structured but it’s more complete.
Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Petite Chapelle Vieilles Vignes
US$2,650 / 每箱價格
Domaine Dugat-Py
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Petite Chapelle Vieilles Vignes” ♥1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 93-95
Tasted: Jan 10, 2022
Drink: 2032+
Issue: 85
Sweet spot Outstanding
Note: from a .32 ha parcel; vinified with 60% whole cluster
Producer note: Bernard Dugat’s son Loïc has now completely taken over the domaine though Bernard continues to help out. As to the 2020 growing season, Dugat noted that it “was another in a recent series of hot, dry and early vintages. The drought caused problems for the younger vines, but we have so many older vines with well-developed root systems that there was relatively little blocage. I started the harvest very early, which is to say we picked between the 20th and 24th of August. We were able to pick so fast because I employed a team of fully 60 pickers and because there wasn’t much fruit and even less that required any significant sorting. Yields were not great as they ranged from 16 to 28 hl/ha, which is a bit less than the 20 to 30 hl/ha we realized in 2019. Potential alcohols came in around 13%, which is also a bit lower than the 13.5% we obtained in 2019. As usual, I used quite a bit of whole clusters during the vinifications, none of which had any trouble finishing. As to the wines, I have to say that I really love the style of the 2020s. Perhaps the most positive aspect is their balance followed by their incredible vibrancy. They are also showing well, and we may in fact have a great vintage on our hands.” Dugat noted that a few wines had either not completely finished their malos, or had only just finished, and as such the entire range was not presented. As I never tire of pointing out, if you like old school wines that are built-to-age, these are for you. In fact, they are so structured that I underscore what I have said in the past: the Dugat-Py wines are constructed for the very long haul even though Loïc has definitely lightened up on the extraction. Even so, in my view it is largely pointless to open the upper-level wines young but if you can’t resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat also said that his 2019s, nine of which are revisited below, were bottled between November 2020 and March 2021 without fining or filtration.
Tasting note: An overtly floral and expressive nose exhibits notes of wild dark cherry, anise and a hint of wood. The more elegant and refined middle weight flavors aren’t quite as powerful but they are more complex and just as concentrated on the youthfully austere finale. This wonderfully stylish mineral-driven effort isn’t as structured but it’s more complete.
