Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
2020 Clos de Vougeot – Grand MaupertuiGrand Cru Red barrel
Score: 92-94
Tasted: Jan 10, 2022
Drink: 2032+
Issue: 85
Note: from a .38 ha parcel
Producer note: Jean-Marc Millot’s daughter Alix has assumed full control of the day-to-day operations though Jean-Marc always seems to be present to help with whatever chore needs attending to. She noted that the domaine is now fully organic though she also noted that she doubts she will go through the certification process. Millot described 2020 as an “incredibly precocious vintage that started and ended early though one that was considerably complicated by almost two months where there was essentially not a drop of rainfall. On the plus side, at least we didn’t have to worry about disease pressure as there was no humidity. We chose to pick from the 23 to the 28th of August and brought in super-clean fruit that just didn’t have much juice in the berries as our yields were really tiny, which is to say between 18 and 20 hl/ha. To give your readers an idea of what this means from another angle, it’s typical that one barrel of wine can be made from around 30 kg of fruit. In 2020, we needed between 350 to 360 kg per barrel compared to say 2021 where a barrel required between 300 and 310 kg. Potential alcohols were all over the map ranging as they did between 12.8 and 14.5%. We did a pretty soft vinification using varying amounts of whole clusters. As to the wines, while they are perfectly good, and with excellent densities and acidity. Even so, I can’t say 2020 is my favorite vintage though I’m not exactly sure why exactly Perhaps they will grow on me in time but for the moment, I prefer more classically styled vintages.” I can easily see what Millot is referring to though as 2020 is definitely not classic in style but with that said, these are very good wines. Mlle Millot noted that they again will issue a second bottling of Echézeaux called Cuvée 1949 and that the 2020s will be bottled without fining or filtration
Tasting note: Very firm reduction. The relatively sleek, energetic and more refined broad-shouldered flavors are not more concentrated, but the supporting tannins possess a finer grain, indeed they’re almost silky, on the impressively long, balanced and complex finale. Lovely and built to age.
