Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier
2009Chambolle-MusignyVillages Red barrel
Score: 87-89
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
Drink: 2014+
Issue: 41
Note: from two different parcels of vines, one located in the premier cru Les Plantes, which was planted in 1968 and the second from the villages-level portion of La Combe d’Orveau, 60% of which is young vines and the remainder is 40+ year old vines
Producer note: Frédéric Mugnier described the 2009 as having a “relatively straightforward growing season save for some early hail in Bonnes Mares and Fuées. It cost me some quantity but otherwise, there wasn’t much if any of qualitative impact. I started the harvest on the 10th of September and brought in extremely clean fruit so there really wasn’t much sorting required. The fruit was extremely ripe with potential alcohols ranging from 13.5 to 14.5%. I did my usual vinification with 100% destemming. In terms of the wines, they strike me as a mix of 2003 and 1990, which is to say the ripeness of the former with the balance of the latter.” Mugnier departed substantially from the large majority of his colleagues when the subject of longevity arose, quipping that “2009 will be a great vintage when it’s old as it will easily be capable of lasting 50 years. The only problem is that when it’s old, I will be dead.” I further asked about how he viewed 2009 versus 2005 and I was surprised to hear that Mugnier believes that his ’09s are more concentrated than his ’05s. That isn’t my impression but in fairness to Mugnier’s view, I haven’t had the chance to taste examples side by side and in any event, Mugnier is a very careful taster so it’s entirely possible that he is correct. The now in-bottle ’08s have largely turned out extremely well, in particular the Amoureuses, Bonnes Mares and Musigny. As an aside, Mugnier has freely admitted for years that the Bonnes Mares isn’t at the level that he would like to see due to what he views as substandard plant material. Some years ago he embarked on a program to rectify that and I have noticed since 2005 that the quality of the Bonnes Mares is significantly better than it was. Both the 2008 and 2009 vintages offer continuing evidence that the quality has materially improved..
Tasting note: A very fresh and quite expressive red berry fruit nose displays a very subtle hint of spiciness that continues onto the rich, generous and mouth coating middle weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the delicious and solidly lingering finish. This has the balance to age but with the fat to allow it to be enjoyed young.
jacques-frederic mugnier, chambolle-musigny
US$3,500 / 每箱價格
Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier
2009Chambolle-MusignyVillages Red barrel
Score: 87-89
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011
Drink: 2014+
Issue: 41
Note: from two different parcels of vines, one located in the premier cru Les Plantes, which was planted in 1968 and the second from the villages-level portion of La Combe d’Orveau, 60% of which is young vines and the remainder is 40+ year old vines
Producer note: Frédéric Mugnier described the 2009 as having a “relatively straightforward growing season save for some early hail in Bonnes Mares and Fuées. It cost me some quantity but otherwise, there wasn’t much if any of qualitative impact. I started the harvest on the 10th of September and brought in extremely clean fruit so there really wasn’t much sorting required. The fruit was extremely ripe with potential alcohols ranging from 13.5 to 14.5%. I did my usual vinification with 100% destemming. In terms of the wines, they strike me as a mix of 2003 and 1990, which is to say the ripeness of the former with the balance of the latter.” Mugnier departed substantially from the large majority of his colleagues when the subject of longevity arose, quipping that “2009 will be a great vintage when it’s old as it will easily be capable of lasting 50 years. The only problem is that when it’s old, I will be dead.” I further asked about how he viewed 2009 versus 2005 and I was surprised to hear that Mugnier believes that his ’09s are more concentrated than his ’05s. That isn’t my impression but in fairness to Mugnier’s view, I haven’t had the chance to taste examples side by side and in any event, Mugnier is a very careful taster so it’s entirely possible that he is correct. The now in-bottle ’08s have largely turned out extremely well, in particular the Amoureuses, Bonnes Mares and Musigny. As an aside, Mugnier has freely admitted for years that the Bonnes Mares isn’t at the level that he would like to see due to what he views as substandard plant material. Some years ago he embarked on a program to rectify that and I have noticed since 2005 that the quality of the Bonnes Mares is significantly better than it was. Both the 2008 and 2009 vintages offer continuing evidence that the quality has materially improved..
Tasting note: A very fresh and quite expressive red berry fruit nose displays a very subtle hint of spiciness that continues onto the rich, generous and mouth coating middle weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the delicious and solidly lingering finish. This has the balance to age but with the fat to allow it to be enjoyed young.
