Producer note: Co-director Aubert de Villaine observed that 2009 was a “great but not easy growing season. The vines got off to an early start and while there was plenty of sun, there was also a relatively high incidence of minor storms that had two effects. The positive side is that it allowed the vines to stockpile water, which allowed them to endure the heat of August and September without stress. The negative aspect is that it encouraged disease and thus we had to remain really vigilant. And it required a lot of treatments as those we applied were constantly being washed off. All of this work though paid for itself handsomely as we harvested some of the most beautiful fruit that I have ever seen. There wasn’t much to sort and as we saw in 1999 and 2005, there was a great deal of shot berries, which meant that the wines were going to be well concentrated. Even better, yields were relatively generous, which is to say at the same levels that we obtained in 1999 and 2005. We began picking on the 10th of September with our new vineyards in Corton, which were clearly ahead of Vosne in terms of maturity. Thereafter we picked the Richebourg on the 13th, Romanée-Conti on the 14th, La Tâche on the 14th and 15th, Romanée St. Vivant on the 15th and 16th, Grands Echézeaux on the 17th and 18th and finally the Echézeaux on the 18th and 19th. The Montrachet was picked on the 15th. We have some young vines in La Tâche and normally they are not included but in 2009 they were so fine and ripe that we kept them. The stems were also very ripe and we used 100% of them for the vinifications. As to the wines, I can’t help but think of 1959 as a vintage comparable. These are the kinds of vintages where Mother Nature smiled and you can sense this in the harmony of the wines. They are relaxed as everything is in its proper place. Moreover, the ’09s are very charming and seductive but different from say the ’99s, which are bigger and perhaps more complex but less charming. We will of course see as time goes on but for now, I am extremely optimistic that 2009 is going to be a great vintage.” My own sense is that while 2009 is not necessarily a great vintage everywhere, it is indeed a fabulous vintage chez Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Tasting note: After the brilliance of the prior wines, I could barely contain my anticipation for the usual aromatic fireworks so often found in young La Tâche……only to find moderate reduction. Happily, the reduction did not extend to the palate as there was excellent energy and freshness to the lacy and stunningly precise broad-scaled flavors that build in intensity from the densely concentrated mid-palate to the explosive and mouth coating finish that seemingly goes on without end. This is a big LT with ample muscle and very firm but not aggressive structure along with superb depth of underlying material and positively mind-blowing length. But the real genius of this wine is the Zen-like harmony and poise. In a word, magnificent.
domaine de la romanee-conti, la tache grand cru
US$23,000 / 每箱價格
Producer note: Co-director Aubert de Villaine observed that 2009 was a “great but not easy growing season. The vines got off to an early start and while there was plenty of sun, there was also a relatively high incidence of minor storms that had two effects. The positive side is that it allowed the vines to stockpile water, which allowed them to endure the heat of August and September without stress. The negative aspect is that it encouraged disease and thus we had to remain really vigilant. And it required a lot of treatments as those we applied were constantly being washed off. All of this work though paid for itself handsomely as we harvested some of the most beautiful fruit that I have ever seen. There wasn’t much to sort and as we saw in 1999 and 2005, there was a great deal of shot berries, which meant that the wines were going to be well concentrated. Even better, yields were relatively generous, which is to say at the same levels that we obtained in 1999 and 2005. We began picking on the 10th of September with our new vineyards in Corton, which were clearly ahead of Vosne in terms of maturity. Thereafter we picked the Richebourg on the 13th, Romanée-Conti on the 14th, La Tâche on the 14th and 15th, Romanée St. Vivant on the 15th and 16th, Grands Echézeaux on the 17th and 18th and finally the Echézeaux on the 18th and 19th. The Montrachet was picked on the 15th. We have some young vines in La Tâche and normally they are not included but in 2009 they were so fine and ripe that we kept them. The stems were also very ripe and we used 100% of them for the vinifications. As to the wines, I can’t help but think of 1959 as a vintage comparable. These are the kinds of vintages where Mother Nature smiled and you can sense this in the harmony of the wines. They are relaxed as everything is in its proper place. Moreover, the ’09s are very charming and seductive but different from say the ’99s, which are bigger and perhaps more complex but less charming. We will of course see as time goes on but for now, I am extremely optimistic that 2009 is going to be a great vintage.” My own sense is that while 2009 is not necessarily a great vintage everywhere, it is indeed a fabulous vintage chez Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Tasting note: After the brilliance of the prior wines, I could barely contain my anticipation for the usual aromatic fireworks so often found in young La Tâche……only to find moderate reduction. Happily, the reduction did not extend to the palate as there was excellent energy and freshness to the lacy and stunningly precise broad-scaled flavors that build in intensity from the densely concentrated mid-palate to the explosive and mouth coating finish that seemingly goes on without end. This is a big LT with ample muscle and very firm but not aggressive structure along with superb depth of underlying material and positively mind-blowing length. But the real genius of this wine is the Zen-like harmony and poise. In a word, magnificent.
